Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, and reflect from solid objects.Īn ocean wave is made up of two main parts, the wave crest and the wave trough. Wave’s size and the depth of water through which it is moving. The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the Energy in the water causes water molecules to move up and down rather than left or right which is why we see ships moving up and down whenever it encounters waves in the ocean. Instead the movement of energy through the water causes very little movement of water. The waves do not cause the water to move. The friction between the wind and water creates the movement of energy that passes through the water molecules, without moving the water molecules themselves very much. Waves are basically disturbances on the surface of the water, which can be formed on all types of water bodies. Oceanographers measure wave height using a term called “significant wave height”, which is the average height of the largest 33 per cent of waves in that region of ocean at the time.Īttempt Free GK Mock Test! Download Entri App! Cause of Ocean Waves The height of a wave is determined by the wind strength, the length of time it blows and the distance it travels over the water. The size of waves vary in length from a fraction of a centimeter for the smallest ripples to half the circumference of Earth for the tides. Once formed, ocean waves can travel great distances before reaching the coast. When wind blows across the surface of the ocean, it creates small ripples, which eventually become waves with the passage of time and distance. Ocean waves are either caused by wind on the surface of the water that creates friction between the air and the water or by abrupt disruptions in the ocean or the movement of tides. They are in continuous motion – rising up, moving forward, going down and again rising. The sight and sound of these waves can give us joy, calm our mind or even raise an alarm, depending upon their nature. The refraction of the ocean waves occurs when it interacts with the sea bed.Ocean waves are pleasing to the eye. Waves come in two kinds, longitudinal waves and transverse waves. Note: There are three types of ocean waves such as wind waves, wind surges, and tsunami. A tsunami is not caused by tidal waves but a tsunami can occur in a tidal state. There is a common misconception between tidal waves and tsunamis. The ebb and flow of normal ocean waves and tidal waves are the life forces of the ocean. These types of ocean waves are called tidal waves. The gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the earth also causes ocean waves. These types of strong ocean waves are called tsunamis. Earthquakes, landslides, and volcanic eruptions are some of the other reasons for ocean waves. Storm surge is caused by the strong winds and the pressure from the severe storms. Hazardous waves have more potential than normal ocean waves. Severe weather like a hurricane causes hazardous waves. Most commonly ocean waves are found across the open oceans and along the coasts. The ocean waves are the result of the friction between the wind and the surface of the water. The continual disturbance creates a wave crest. The wind blows across the surface of the sea or a lake. Ocean waves do not transmit water, they transmit energy. The wavelength is calculated by the distance between the two adjacent crests. The height of the wave is calculated by the vertical distance between the crest and the trough. The lower part of the wave is called wave trough and the upper part of the wave is called wave crest. The up and down movement of water in the sea is known as ocean waves. Storm surge and tidal waves move upon the shore like an enormous sea-level ascent and can reach far distance inland. Storm surge and tsunamis are not crashing down on the shore. Hint: A series of long waves are created far from the seashore in deeper water and intensify as they move closer to the land.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |